Appliance Repair Whitby

Problem

Unlike a partial cooling failure, the entire fridge has gone to room temperature. Both fresh food and freezer compartments are warm. Food is actively spoiling. You may hear no sound at all from the compressor area — or a clicking sound every few minutes, which is the start relay trying repeatedly and failing.

Cause

Compressor start relay failure (cheap part, common failure point), thermal overload protector tripping, capacitor failure, or the compressor motor itself has burned out. The repeated clicking is the relay attempting to start the compressor and shutting off because it can't. On Samsung and LG fridges from the 2014-2018 model years, there's a well-documented sealed-system failure mode that produces complete cooling loss.

Other Issues We Repair

Warm fresh side but cold freezer (defrost) · Ice maker not making ice · Water dispenser slow · Loud humming or rattling · Door seal failures · Interior light burned out · Temperature won't hold setting · Water pooling under fridge

Problem

You find a pool of water under or behind the washer. The leak might be a small drip during the fill cycle, a sudden flush during drain, or a slow seep only visible during high-speed spin. Either way, subfloor damage starts within days if it isn't addressed — and basement laundry rooms can flood quickly if the issue grows.

Cause

Front-loads: failed door boot gasket (the rubber that seals the door), a worn drum spider gasket, or a tub-to-pump hose with a cracked clamp. Top-loads: failed water inlet valve (constant slow drip), torn drum tub gasket, or worn outer drum bearings allowing water past the main seal. Burst hoses are a known Whirlpool, Maytag, and Kenmore failure point after 8-10 years of service.

Other Issues We Repair

Won't drain (water sits in drum) · Won't spin or excessive vibration · Door or lid won't lock · F-codes, LE codes, OE codes · Detergent dispenser stuck · Won't start or no power · Excessive noise during spin · Won't agitate or tumble

Problem

Within minutes of starting, you smell a hot, burnt-fabric or burning-lint odor from the dryer. The smell isn't subtle — it's the kind that makes you stop the cycle immediately. Sometimes clothes come out with a strange smell. This is a fire risk and not a "monitor and see" situation — clothes dryer fires cause thousands of house fires across Canada annually, and almost all are preventable.

Cause

Almost always lint accumulation inside the dryer's internal cavity — not just the visible lint screen — often combined with a damaged dryer duct or a malfunctioning heating element that's overheating because airflow is restricted. The lint trap catches surface lint; deep lint hides in the blower housing, around the heating element, and inside the front bulkhead. On heat-pump dryers (Bosch, LG), a burning smell can also indicate a failed compressor or refrigerant issue in the sealed system.

Other Issues We Repair

Won't heat (clothes come out wet) · Loud thumping or squealing · Drum not turning · Won't start · Stops mid-cycle · Door switch issues · Moisture sensor errors · Takes 2+ cycles to fully dry

Problem

Specific to Bosch dishwashers (also Siemens, Neff, Thermador — same parent group). The unit displays E15, the AquaStop water shut-off has triggered, and the dishwasher refuses to start any cycle. May make a continuous pumping sound as it tries to evacuate water from the base pan. The fault stays active even after a full power cycle — pulling the plug doesn't reset it.

Cause

E15 means the leak sensor in the base pan has detected moisture. Three possibilities: a real leak from a hose or connection inside the cavity; a slow drip from the water inlet that's accumulated over months; or a false trigger from condensation, sweating during high-humidity weather, or a failed sensor itself. False E15s are particularly common in newer Brooklin builds where original install crews sometimes leave moisture in the base pan during installation.

Other Issues We Repair

Won't drain (water sits in tub) · Dishes coming out dirty · Won't start or no lights · Soap dispenser stuck closed · Spray arm not rotating · Hot water not reaching unit · Door latch broken · LE / OE error codes

Problem

You turn the knob to the lighting position, hear the clicking igniter, smell gas — but no flame. Or the burner lights once and immediately goes out. Sometimes all burners are affected; sometimes just one. Gas smell lingers after you turn the knob off. This is not safe to keep trying — repeated unsuccessful ignition attempts release unburned gas into the kitchen.

Cause

Worn or carbon-fouled spark electrode (the ceramic-tipped igniter prong), a failed spark module (the control box that generates the ignition voltage), or a blocked gas port at the burner head from spilled food. The clicking continues because the spark module is still firing, but the spark can't jump the gap properly. On Samsung and KitchenAid gas ranges, the igniter assembly is a known wear part after 4-6 years. Gas work requires gas-certified technicians — we always shut off the gas valve before opening anything.

Other Issues We Repair

Touch panel non-responsive · Electric burner won't heat · Induction won't recognize pan · Oven won't reach temperature · Self-clean failed · F1/F2/F3 codes · Display clock dim or stuck · Door seal worn

Problem

You set the self-clean cycle, the oven heated to its high temperature (~900°F), and during or after the cycle something went wrong. Oven won't unlock. The door is mechanically stuck closed. Controls are dead or showing F-codes. Sometimes there's a faint smell of burnt plastic or smoke. The whole unit might be unresponsive — and you can't even open it to inspect.

Cause

Self-clean cycles are the #1 cause of oven failures because of the extreme heat involved. The common failures: thermal fuse blown (a safety device that sacrifices itself at high heat to prevent fire); door lock motor burned out from extended heat exposure; control board fried by heat radiating up from below; or wiring insulation melted near the heating element. Worst case is control board failure plus thermal fuse blown together. Samsung, LG, KitchenAid, and Whirlpool models from 2010-2018 are particularly vulnerable.

Other Issues We Repair

Won't reach temperature / takes forever to preheat · Door won't latch · Convection fan loud or stopped · Light bulb burned out (sealed housing) · Touch panel non-responsive · F1/F2/F3 / E101 codes · Smoke during preheat · Oven doesn't shut off