Appliance Repair Oshawa

Problem

The fresh food side stays warm — typically 50–60°F instead of the proper 38°F — while the freezer continues to work normally. Lights come on, fans run, but cold air isn't reaching the upper section.

Cause

Almost always a defrost system failure. The defrost timer, defrost thermostat, or defrost heater has stopped working, so frost builds up on the evaporator coil and blocks airflow from the freezer to the fridge section. The freezer feels colder because all the cooling is trapped behind the ice block.

Other Issues We Repair

Ice maker not making ice · Water dispenser slow or stopped · Compressor not running · Loud humming or rattling · Door seal failures · Interior light burned out · Temperature won't hold setting · Water pooling under fridge

Problem

The wash or rinse cycle finishes (or stops partway through), and the drum is sitting full of standing water. You might hear the pump trying to run with no result, or hear nothing at all. Clothes are wet, the door won't unlock, and the machine seems stuck.

Cause

Either the drain pump itself has failed — motor burned out, impeller cracked, internal blockage — or something is physically stuck in the pump filter. A sock, coin, bobby pin, or piece of underwire has worked its way past the drum filter and is blocking the pump from rotating. Both front-load and top-load washers fail this way.

Other Issues We Repair

Won't spin or excessive vibration · Door or lid won't lock · Leaking during fill or spin · Won't start or no power · F-codes, LE codes, OE codes · Detergent dispenser stuck · Excessive noise during spin · Won't agitate or tumble

Problem

The dryer powers on, the drum turns, you can hear it running for the full cycle length — but when you open the door, clothes are damp or even cold. Sometimes the air feels slightly warm; sometimes there's no heat at all.

Cause

For electric dryers, it's usually a burned heating element, a blown thermal fuse, or an open thermal cutoff switch. For gas dryers, it's typically a failed igniter, a stuck gas valve coil, or a failed flame sensor. For heat-pump dryers (Bosch, LG models), it's often a compressor failure or a refrigerant leak in the sealed system. Each type requires a different diagnostic approach.

Other Issues We Repair

Drum not turning · Loud thumping or squealing · Won't start at all · Stops mid-cycle · Door switch issues · Moisture sensor errors · Burning lint smell · Takes 2+ cycles to fully dry

Problem

The cycle finishes but a few inches of dirty water are sitting in the bottom tub. Dishes come out wet, sometimes with residue or particles re-deposited on them. You might hear the pump trying to drain but no water leaves the machine.

Cause

Drain pump failure is the most common culprit, but it's not always the pump itself. Clogged drain hose, blocked sump filter, or a kinked/clogged garbage disposal connection (when the dishwasher drains into the disposal) cause the same symptom. Sometimes the check valve in the drain line is stuck closed.

Other Issues We Repair

Not cleaning dishes properly · E15 leak code (Bosch) · Won't start or no lights · Soap dispenser stuck closed · Spray arm not rotating · Hot water not reaching unit · Door latch broken · LE / OE error codes

Problem

On a coil-element electric stove, one or more burners stay cold even on high heat. On a smooth-top, a burner only heats partially or doesn't glow red at all. On induction, the cooktop refuses to detect compatible pans, or shuts off mid-cook with an error code. Gas burners may click without lighting.

Cause

Electric coil burners — burned-out heating element, or failed infinite switch in the control housing. Smooth-top — failed radiant element or burner switch. Induction — generator board failure, pan-sensing coil out of calibration, or capacitor failure on the induction module. Gas burners — igniter failure, gas valve issue, or wiring damage at the burner head.

Other Issues We Repair

Oven won't reach temperature · Touch panel non-responsive · Self-clean failed mid-cycle · Door seal worn · Oven light bulb · Convection fan failed · F1/F2/F3 error codes · Display clock dim or stuck

Problem

You set the oven to 350°F, but after 30 minutes the display still reads 250°F or lower. An oven thermometer placed inside might show readings 50–100°F below set point. Sometimes the oven reaches temperature initially but drops back down mid-bake. Cookies and roasts come out undercooked.

Cause

Failed bake element (visible cracks, blistering, or no glow when on), failed broil element, oven temperature sensor (RTD) drifted out of calibration, or a relay on the control board for the heating circuit has burned out. On convection ovens, a failed convection fan motor causes uneven heat that looks like temperature failure.

Other Issues We Repair

Door won't stay closed · Self-clean lock stuck · Convection fan loud or stopped · Light bulb burned out (sealed housing) · Touch panel non-responsive · F1/F2/F3 / E101 codes · Smoke during preheat · Oven doesn't shut off