Appliance Repair Pickering

Problem

Either constant humming louder than normal, or intermittent buzzing and clicking from the back of the fridge or underneath. Sometimes loud enough to make items on top rattle. Sometimes the noise comes and goes throughout the day. The fridge usually still cools — but the noise has gotten progressively worse over weeks.

Cause

Three usual sources. The condenser fan motor at the back has worn bearings — produces a buzzing or grinding hum. The evaporator fan inside the freezer is hitting an ice buildup — produces a sharp ticking sound when the fan blade contacts frost. The compressor itself is starting to wear or has loose mounting hardware — produces a deep bass hum that conducts through the floor. On Samsung French-doors, a known issue with the cool-select pantry fan creates a high-pitched whine.

Other Issues We Repair

Warm fresh side but cold freezer (defrost) · Compressor not running · Ice maker not making ice · Water dispenser slow or stopped · Door seal failures · Interior light burned out · Temperature won't hold setting · Water pooling under fridge

Problem

You load the washer, close the door, press start — but the cycle won't begin. The lock light blinks but never engages solid, or the machine immediately stops with an error code (F02, LE codes are common). On top-loaders, the lid switch doesn't sense the lid is down. On front-loaders, the door interlock won't engage even though you can hear it click.

Cause

Front-loads: failed door interlock assembly (most common — wears out after 3-5 years of frequent use), broken door latch cable, or a damaged door catch on the frame. Top-loads: failed lid switch (mechanical wear) or a broken lid lock motor on newer models. On Samsung washers, the door interlock has a known design issue where the catch tab snaps off into the door cavity. On LG, the F02 code points to a specific interlock failure that's well-documented.

Other Issues We Repair

Won't drain · Won't spin or excessive vibration · Leaking during fill or spin · F-codes, LE codes, OE codes · Detergent dispenser stuck · Won't start (no power) · Excessive noise during spin · Won't agitate or tumble

Problem

You start the dryer, hear the motor humming or running, watch the timer count down, the heating element may even warm up — but the drum sits still. Clothes don't tumble. Sometimes you hear a low motor hum without the typical rotation sound. The dryer goes through a full cycle without doing anything useful.

Cause

Almost always the drive belt has broken or slipped off. The belt wraps around the drum and the motor pulley; when it breaks, the motor still runs but has nothing to drive. Second possibility: the idler pulley has seized — same effect, the belt can't grip. Third: the motor itself has failed but the housing fan keeps spinning, fooling you into thinking the motor is working. On Whirlpool, Maytag, and Kenmore dryers, belt failure is a common 8-12 year wear item.

Other Issues We Repair

Won't heat (clothes come out wet) · Loud thumping or squealing · Burning lint smell · Won't start · Stops mid-cycle · Door switch issues · Moisture sensor errors · Takes 2+ cycles to fully dry

Problem

You load a detergent pod or powder, close the dispenser door, run a cycle — and at the end the door is still closed with the detergent still inside. Dishes come out unwashed. Sometimes the dispenser opens partially, sometimes not at all. The unit otherwise runs through the cycle normally with water spraying as expected.

Cause

Three common causes. The dispenser latch mechanism has worn or bent — common after 5+ years of frequent use. The wax motor that releases the latch on signal has failed — these motors heat a wax pellet that expands to push the latch open, and they wear out gradually. Or the control board is no longer sending the release signal at the right point in the cycle. On KitchenAid and Whirlpool dishwashers, the wax motor is a known wear part. On Bosch, the dispenser spring can also fail.

Other Issues We Repair

Won't drain (water sits in tub) · Dishes coming out dirty · Bosch E15 leak code · Won't start or no lights · Spray arm not rotating · Hot water not reaching unit · Door latch broken · LE / OE error codes

Problem

You turn the burner knob to medium or low, but the burner stays running at full power. Pots boil over because the heat won't reduce. You can hear the relay clicking or feel the burner stay hot regardless of dial position. Sometimes affects only one burner; sometimes multiple. The only way to stop the heat is to turn the burner off completely.

Cause

Almost always a failed infinite switch — the control behind the knob that modulates the burner's power. Infinite switches use a bimetal cycling mechanism that wears out, usually getting stuck in the "on" position. Less commonly: the burner element itself has a partial short, drawing constant power regardless of switch setting; or the surface burner switch on smooth-top ranges has welded contacts. On Whirlpool, GE, and KitchenAid coil-element ranges, infinite switches typically last 8-12 years.

Other Issues We Repair

Touch panel non-responsive · Electric burner won't heat · Induction won't recognize pan · Gas burner won't ignite · Oven won't reach temperature · Self-clean failed · F1/F2/F3 codes · Display clock dim

Problem

You turn on the oven to preheat, and within minutes the kitchen fills with smoke. Sometimes a light haze; sometimes enough to set off the smoke detector. The smoke is acrid, not food-smell. The oven hasn't been used in days so it can't be food residue. Smoke appears specifically during preheat, sometimes calms down once the oven hits temperature.

Cause

Two main culprits. First: a failed heating element (bake or broil) that has shorted internally — instead of glowing evenly, it has a hot spot that smokes from burning insulation inside the element coil. You can usually see physical damage: blistered, bulging, or cracked spots. Second: residue or grease buildup deep inside the oven cavity, often inside the convection fan housing or behind the heat shields — this builds up over years and only smokes during preheat when the cavity spikes before stabilizing. On Whirlpool and KitchenAid wall ovens, the convection fan housing collects grease and is a known issue after 5-7 years.

Other Issues We Repair

Won't reach temperature · Door won't latch · Self-clean failed · Convection fan loud or stopped · Light bulb burned out (sealed housing) · Touch panel non-responsive · F1/F2/F3 / E101 codes · Oven doesn't shut off