Appliance Repair Ajax

Problem

The fridge itself runs perfectly — proper temps in both compartments, fans spinning — but the ice maker has stopped filling, stopped cycling, or is producing tiny malformed cubes. The cube bin sits empty after 24 hours. Pressing the manual test button does nothing, or it fills with water but never ejects.

Cause

Three usual culprits. First: a frozen water inlet line — common in older fridges where the line passes through the freezer wall and a slow drip freezes shut over months. Second: a failed water inlet valve solenoid that no longer responds to the fill signal. Third: the ice maker module itself — the gear motor that ejects cubes and the thermostat that controls the cycle typically wear out around year 5-8. On Samsung French-doors specifically, the entire ice maker assembly is a known failure point.

Other Issues We Repair

Fridge warm but freezer cold (defrost failure) · Water dispenser slow or stopped · Compressor not running · Loud humming or rattling · Door seal failures · Interior light burned out · Temperature won't hold setting · Water pooling under fridge

Problem

The wash cycle runs fine — fill, agitate, drain — but when the machine should enter spin cycle, nothing happens or it spins weakly. Clothes come out soaking wet. On front-loads, the alternative symptom is violent shaking during spin: the machine literally walks across the laundry room floor. Top-loads may stop mid-cycle with the lid still locked and water remaining.

Cause

For front-loads: failed drive motor, broken motor coupling, worn drum bearings, or an unbalance switch that can't sense load distribution. Excessive shaking points to broken shock absorbers or worn suspension rods — common on Samsung and LG front-loads after 5-7 years. For top-loads: failed clutch assembly, broken drive belt on older models, or a failed motor control board that won't engage the spin circuit.

Other Issues We Repair

Won't drain or water sits in drum · Door or lid won't lock · Leaking during fill or spin · Detergent dispenser stuck · F-codes, LE codes, OE codes · Won't start or no power · Won't agitate or tumble · Excessive noise even before spin

Problem

The dryer powers on, the drum turns, clothes actually dry — but every rotation produces a loud thump, squeal, or grinding sound. You can hear it three rooms away. Sometimes intermittent, sometimes constant. The noise typically gets worse over weeks until it's impossible to ignore.

Cause

Almost always a worn drum-support component — either the rear drum rollers, the front drum bearing/glides, or the idler pulley that tensions the drive belt. A failing idler pulley bearing produces a high-pitched squeal. Worn rear drum rollers produce a rhythmic thump in time with drum rotation. On Whirlpool, Maytag, and Kenmore dryers, the drum support shaft itself can wear through after 10+ years of use.

Other Issues We Repair

Won't heat (clothes come out wet) · Drum not turning at all · Won't start · Stops mid-cycle · Door switch issues · Moisture sensor errors · Burning lint smell · Takes 2+ cycles to fully dry

Problem

You load it, run a cycle, open the door — and dishes look essentially as they went in. Food residue still on plates, glassware streaky, dried-on bits stuck to the bottom rack. Sometimes worse with each cycle, not better. Detergent pod was used, rinse aid is full, water heater is set right — but cleaning performance has collapsed.

Cause

Three main suspects. The lower spray arm has stopped rotating — either clogged jets, a cracked arm, or a failed wash pump. The water inlet valve isn't bringing in enough water for proper cleaning pressure. Or the heating element has failed — without hot water during the wash cycle, even the best detergent won't dissolve grease. A worn pump impeller is also common: it spins but no longer generates enough pressure to spray properly.

Other Issues We Repair

Won't drain (water sits in tub) · E15 leak code (Bosch) · Won't start or no lights · Soap dispenser stuck closed · Door latch broken · LE / OE error codes · Hot water not reaching unit · Detergent dispenser door won't open

Problem

You press the touch panel — for a burner, oven temp, timer, anything — and nothing happens. No beep, no display change, no response. Sometimes only certain buttons stop working; sometimes the entire control panel goes dead. The display might still be visible, but inputs do nothing. The stove is essentially bricked.

Cause

Touch panel failure is usually one of three things. The panel itself — the glass with capacitive sensors underneath — has failed from steam moisture, grease infiltration, or a sealed-housing breakdown. Second: the main control board has a failed input section, often from a power surge during a thunderstorm or brownout. Third: a connector or ribbon cable between the panel and the board has come loose or oxidized — a common slow failure on Samsung and LG ranges as they age.

Other Issues We Repair

Burner won't heat / induction won't recognize pan · Oven won't reach temperature · Self-clean failed mid-cycle · Door seal worn · Oven light bulb (sealed housing) · Convection fan failed · F1/F2/F3 error codes · Display clock dim or stuck

Problem

The oven door won't close all the way — you can see a small gap, heat escapes during baking, the door slams open easily, or feels loose. Alternative version: the self-clean cycle finished hours ago but the door is still mechanically locked. The LOCK light is still on, the controls won't respond to manual override, and the door physically will not open.

Cause

Door not closing is usually worn or broken door hinges — heavy oven doors stress the hinge springs over years — or a compressed door gasket that prevents the latch from engaging. Self-clean lock stuck after cycle is almost always a failed door lock motor: the motor that mechanically locks the door during the high-heat clean cycle has thermal limits that can wear out after several cleans. The motor stops returning to the "unlocked" position. This is a known issue on certain Samsung and KitchenAid models.

Other Issues We Repair

Won't reach temperature / takes forever to preheat · Convection fan loud or stopped · Light bulb burned out (sealed housing) · Touch panel non-responsive · F1/F2/F3 / E101 codes · Smoke during preheat · Oven doesn't shut off · Self-clean cycle won't start